Iran: visa, security and other issues

IRANIAN VISA

As of today (2023), the tourist visa to visit Iran can be requested through this link from the “Ministry of Foreign Affairs”: https://evisa.mfa.ir/en

On this website you can choose the Embassy or Consulate where you want to pick it up when it is ready. This can be your own country or the country from which you are traveling to Iran (by air or land). I did it twice this way, from Armenia in September 2019 and from Pakistan in October 2021. I leave the data here in case it helps someone:

- Embassy of Iran in Yerevan.

- Consulate of Iran in Quetta (in Pakistan you can also apply in Islamabad, Lahore and Karachi).

On the same website of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Iran you can find the price and duration of the visa depending on your nationality. For many nationalities (such as Spanish) it is around 100 euros and they give us 30 days.

Once in Iran you can extend the visa for another 30 days - up to two times - at the visa renewal offices, organizations that exist in the main cities such as Tehran, Isfahan, Shiraz, Mashhad... I did it in Bojnurd and it was a success, since it is a city with little tourism and the process was very fast. Also, they didn't charge me the fee, which is small anyway. Here is the link with the list of cities where the visa can be extended and their addresses: Iran visa extensions | Caravanistan

Note. Previously it was only possible to apply for the Iranian visa through an agency, which charged you a higher price and notified you when it was ready, waiting for you at the requested embassy or consulate. I don't know if there are still nations that have to do it like this (I wouldn't be surprised).

SECURITY

Hospitality in Balochistan, Iran

It is a VERY SAFE country and its population is extremely friendly to foreigners. Iranians will often invite you to their homes. Plus, camping in city parks has never been easier or safer: it turns out to be an activity that locals love to do, even with their house next door!

Iranian style camping

The apparently most conflictive areas are Kurdistan and Balochistan, because part of the population is fighting to be an independent state. However, it is precisely where you will find the most hospitality.

Now, be careful with the authorities, that is, the police and the intelligence services. Of all the countries I have been to, it seems to me the most dangerous. Don't even think about using a drone in Iran or taking photos in (or near) police stations, military zones or land borders. There have been a number of cases of travelers of different nationalities who have gone to jail, some staying for long periods of time. I especially recommend taking extreme precautions near the borders with Pakistan, Afghanistan and of course the entire Kurdish area. I only had one scare, but it was big. Simply because I had spent half a year in Pakistan, they confiscated my laptop, hard drive and travel diary to investigate me.

On the other hand, the road and health infrastructure is very good. It is a generally clean country and there is no need to worry about getting sick from food or water. Of course, in much of the country latrines are used and showers are "bucket-based". It doesn't take long to get used to the local customs, including wiping your ass with water ;)

OTHER ISSUES

Whenever we travel we must respect the chosen country and culture. Far from the stereotypes we have about the Persian people (and sister ethnic groups), the people of these lands are very understanding and tolerant towards some things that we foreigners can do and that will surely shock them. Even so, we must adapt to their customs, especially with regard to religion in the most conservative areas. So, for example, if you enter a mosque you must take off your shoes (also in most houses), in addition to wearing appropriate clothing.

Mosque in Tabriz

Unfortunately, and I say this especially for the Iranian women themselves who suffer from it daily, since the Iranian Revolution it has been mandatory to have one's hair covered with a veil or hijab. So if you are a female traveler wanting to get to know Iran, you will have to follow the rule. You will see many local girls do not wear it, or perhaps they wear it incorrectly and adjust it “right” when they come across a police officer.

Kurdish women

It is also good manners to accept any offering that they may offer you. Tea is the star product, but they can offer you sweets, fruits, a meal, a shower, a walk together, meeting their cousins and/or going to their houses (this is synonymous with staying the night). It may be the famous “tarof”, which means that by culture the offer is simply out of courtesy, but my experience and that of other travelers tells me that with foreigners it is usually genuine and pure. They love us. If you can't or don't want to, reject the invitation with a smile at least three times. It won't be easy, you have been warned!