Southern Pakistan itinerary

Not many people dare to visit Pakistan and discover this incredible gem. Its triple mountain ranges in the north – the Himalayas, Karakoram and Hindu Kush – border countries as diverse as India, China, Afghanistan (and almost Tajikistan), are an ode to nature. Rivers, lakes, glaciers, kilometre-long suspension bridges, diverse forests and even frozen deserts await here, which can be reached after epic journeys on winding roads. Some of them have historical importance on the Silk Road between the Indian subcontinent and Central Asia, such as the Karakoram Highway. The south, on the other hand, is a very different world: hot, chaotic, India's cousin, and with a great history behind it, that of the Indus Valley civilisation.

But there is something even more wonderful than all that, at least for those of us who, after so many years of traveling, have understood the meaning of it all: the Pakistani people. Punjabis, Sindis, Pashtuns, Chitralis, Sina, Kashmiris, Baluches… all of them ethnic groups of the most varied kind but with one characteristic in common: their generosity and unparalleled hospitality. Getting to know each of these people is more than enough reason to travel the country from end to end (we were there for more than half a year and it didn’t seem long at all), and that is why I am going to recommend here a detailed itinerary of the north (like the one we did), from Islamabad up, with a recommended time of three months (if it is longer, the better!) and another shorter one of the south, from Lahore and Punjab down. The first one is described in the post NORTHERN PAKISTAN, ITINERARY.

Note 1. Itineraries adapted from our visit. The first time we entered from Iran (Taftan Border) and the second from India (Wagah Border).

Note 2. The climate is very variable depending on the time of year. The south is very hot in summer and is best explored between autumn and winter. The north is cold from November to March and is best explored between spring and autumn.

RECOMMENDED TIME: 2-3 WEEKS

LAHORE

“Lahore es seguramente la ciudad más bonita, viva e interesante del país. La capital de Punjab se caracteriza por su larga historia y su importancia en la actualidad y en los Imperios pasados. Solo hace falta atravesar los muros y penetrar en la Walled City para darse cuenta enseguida de que ahí se respira un pasado legendario... La mezcolanza de las gentes de Lahore moviéndose por ese caos que recuerda a India es el sello distintivo. Mujeres envueltas en telas y prendas de colores, niños corriendo, adolescentes con ropas tradicionales que les hacen parecer adultos, hombres con barba mirándote curiosos, señores mayores leyendo el periódico. Los olores, los colores, los sonidos que brotan de cada esquina, de cada negocio, de cada mezquita”. Fragment from my book El Pekín Express Canino.

See and do

Badshani Masjid. This is the most spectacular mosque in Lahore and one of the most beautiful in the world. Built in Mughal style by Emperor Aurangzeb in 1673, it is twinned with the Jama Masjid in Delhi. If you go up to the terrace of the nearby Haveli Restaurant, you will have privileged views of the mosque.

Walled City Bazaar. Getting lost in the narrow, busy alleys and chatting with the merchants is the most captivating thing about Lahore. In addition, you can enter the 17th century Wazir Khan Mosque, also Mughal and almost as fascinating (or more) than that of Badshani.

Try food at stalls. There are many fruits, drinks and foods to try in Lahore. I was won over by the sugar cane juice with lemon, the most delicious and refreshing juice I have ever tasted.

Accommodation

There is a wide range of hostels and rooms. I can't recommend any of them because the three times I came I stayed in local people's homes (and a pet daycare!). If you are travelling with a dog I recommend using Couchsurfing. There are no campsites that I know of.

HARAPPA: THE INDUS VALLEY I

“… cuando estábamos confinados en India me leí un libraco llamado “World History”, en cuyos capítulos iniciales hablaba de las cuatro primeras grandes zonas con civilizaciones propiamente dichas: Mesopotamia, Egipto, China y el Indus Valley. De todas ellas, la última es quizá de la que menos conocimiento se tiene… se desarrolló a lo largo del valle del río Indo, abarcando más de un millón de kilómetros cuadrados (hoy día Afganistán, Pakistán e India). Tuvo su auge entre los años 3500 y 1300 a. C... En el momento máximo de su florecimiento se estima una población de cinco millones de habitantes... Frente a los alrededor de 300.000 en Mesopotamia en el año 2500 a. C. ¡Estos indios marcando diferencias de natalidad desde los albores de la historia! Los asentamientos más importantes fueron Harappa, Mohenjo Daro, Merhghar y Lothal. Nosotros visitaríamos los dos primeros, empezando por el primero aquella misma mañana. Como siempre en Pakistán, nuestra experiencia fue más allá de aspectos meramente culturales. No solo dormimos con escolta, sino que también visitamos los asentamientos (ambos) escoltados, volviendo a sentirnos celebrities de paseo por Pakistán para rebobinar en la historia”. El Pekín Express Canino.

It's amazing to be able to be in such a place. Even if you're not going to visit southern Pakistan, consider taking a trip to Harappa from Lahore. It's something different to see in the country.

Accommodation

There is no infrastructure in Harappa and the nearest village, but only on the road itself, about 6 km from the archaeological site. You can't camp nearby either in theory. However, if they see you setting up your tent like we did, they might let you sleep inside the complex.

MULTAN: DIVING DEEPER INTO PUNJAB

“‘THIS FEELS LIKE INDIA!’, exclamó Sonia cuando hicimos una parada en un pueblo. No podía ser más verdadera esa frase. Ya lo habíamos sentido desde que habíamos puesto un pie en Punjab. Desde Lahore. Pero a medida que íbamos bajando en el mapa esa sensación se acentuaba. El tráfico, el caos, los ruidos, la música, los olores, los sabores, los colores, los trajes de la peña, sus rostros, su forma de interrelacionarse, las tiendas y puestos de comida, los animales sueltos y libres por la carretera, la basura y desorden, los paisajes... Y el clima. Sobre todo el clima. La atmósfera ardiente y húmeda que envuelve todo este cosmos que llaman Southern Pakistan es idéntica a la que se respira en gran parte de la India”. El Pekín Express Canino.

It is on this itinerary, but I DO NOT recommend Multan. We had a horrible experience “thanks” to the police, as in much of the south of the country. And I know that, at least as of 2021, many foreigners suffered a similar fate.

A must-see: the Tomb of Shah Rukn-e-Alam. Built in the 14th century in honour of the Sufi saint Sheikh Rukn-ud-Din Abul Fateh, this shrine is considered the oldest example of Tughluq (pre-Mughal) architecture and is stunningly beautiful (at least on the outside).

Accommodation

Normally the police take you to a hotel, but we were driven around the city and couldn't find any that allowed dogs. They don't let you stay in local people's houses either.

BAHAWALPUR AND THE CHOLISTAN DESERT

“La impresionante fortaleza de color tierra nos saludó desde unos kilómetros antes, como un castillo de Juego de Tronos. Sus muros de 1500 metros de perímetro y 30 de alto sobresalían en aquel desierto. Mientras explorábamos por dentro nos metimos un poco en la historia que habíamos leído previamente. Nos pareció una pasada de lugar y descubrir que éramos los únicos visitantes, ya no solo internacionales, sino en general. Se le da muy poco valor a los tesoros de Pakistán, empezando por los propios Gobiernos (nacional y autonómicos). En cualquier otro país dicha fortaleza estaría restaurada y sería reclamo turístico de primer nivel. En cambio aquí estaba abandonada y derruida… Era tal el deterioro que aquello se había convertido en la casa de millones de murciélagos”. El Pekín Express Canino.

Bahawalpur is worth the detour. This desert town offers a different culture and a different ecosystem. You will see how the desert people live and you can visit the Cholistan Desert (if the police allow you). We went to see the Derawar Fort, in the middle of the desert. We loved it. On the way we also passed through small villages with their markets.

Accommodation

There are options in Bahawalpur. We stayed at the home of a local man we had met on the way to Harappa.

SUKKUR

Photo: Lin Tang Yu

Sukkur is the gateway to the little-visited province of Sindh. It is a dirty, chaotic and ugly city, but it has that “Indian” charm of everything happening at the same time that it captivates. Also, even if you don’t want to visit it, you may have to pass through here, as it is right at the intersection between Baluchistan, the rest of Sindh, including Karachi, and Punjab. There are trains and buses connecting all these destinations.

Accommodation

We stayed at the Green Place Hotel. It was the only one that allowed us with two dogs. About 10-12 euros per night for a room.

MOHENJO DARO: THE INDUS VALLEY II

“Esas calles de arena flanqueadas por muros, esos rectángulos que un día fueron habitaciones y baños… y templos. Y sobre todo ese montículo elevado, que no era otra cosa que una ciudadela con los edificios más importantes dominando al resto. Y por supuesto la gente. Los tataratataratataratataratataranietos de las primeras civilizaciones de estas tierras no se diferenciaban físicamente mucho al resto de habitantes primos de Pakistán e India, pero sus intensas miradas, de algún modo, te transportaban al pasado. Un pasado glorioso del que en ningún caso gozan en la actualidad. La pobreza, corrupción política y poder de las mafias de Sindh han hecho tambalear los cimientos de esos Imperios y hoy todo eso se refleja en poblados precarios amontonados a lo largo del valle del Indo”. El Pekín Express Canino.

The best excursion you can make from Sukkur is this one. Another relic of the Indus Valley civilization. It is worth coming if you like archaeology and history.

Accommodation

Larkana is the closest settlement with infrastructure. However, it is a complicated city in terms of security, or at least that is what the police will tell you if they see you wandering around alone as a foreigner. They will probably take you to sleep in a hotel of their choice or to a police station.

KARACHI

Personally, I wouldn't recommend it as part of a Pakistan itinerary, because it's far from everything else and I avoid huge cities, but many travellers land and start their Pakistani adventure here. There are two things that stand out for me: the flavour and chaos of a city of more than 20 million souls... and the modernity of its people. It's another side of the coin in Pakistan.

THE BALUCHE DESERT AND THE TAFTAN BORDER: AN EPIC JOURNEY

“El show comenzó antes de las 7:00. Nos apretujamos en el montacargas de una pickup, la primera de cerca de cuarenta… y arrancamos… El frío mañanero del desierto y la adrenalina nos mantenían despiertísimos, tratando de absorber cada trozo de infinita arena y un cielo que tocaba más abajo que nunca. Las montañas peladas a mano izquierda, tan cerca y tan lejos, eran la línea divisoria geográfica que nos separaba de Afganistán. Nos acompañarían durante cientos de kilómetros… Los militares que nos acompañaron, en ocasiones únicamente en la parte delantera y otras también con nosotros en el montacargas, no eran muy habladores. Con sus kalashnikovs preparados al hombro tampoco alentaban a uno para dirigirles la palabra. Era increíble compartir semejante ride con alguien así. Sosteniendo firme su arma mientras daba botes en el montacargas como uno más. Su mirada clavada en esas tierras inhóspitas, atento a cada movimiento sospechoso… Los minutos y las horas de esa primera jornada fueron transcurriendo sin que el paisaje cambiase demasiado. Un punto de nuestra Tierra que parece de otro planeta, con esa geología marciana y sin atisbo de vida. Hasta que empezaron a aparecer los camellos, la única prueba de que realmente estábamos en nuestro querido cuerpo celeste”. El Pekín Express Canino.

The journey from Quetta to the Iranian border, the Taftan Border, is one of the greatest travel adventures. Around 600 km through the Baloch desert, bouncing around in forklifts escorted by soldiers, stopping at dozens of checkpoints… A journey that lasts between two and three days, with nights spent in police stations, including Dalbandin and Quetta. The latter is the capital of Baluchistan and, although you may not be allowed to move around on your own, it is a city that impresses, with its bazaars full of food stalls, shops… and men. There are hardly any women.

We did it both ways (November 2019 and October 2021). It is the only way today to travel between Iran and Pakistan by land and it cannot be done on your own. The independence struggle of Baloch militias, coupled with arms and drug trafficking controlled by the Taliban, were the triggers for the central government to declare the country's largest province a red zone.

If you are coming from Iran, you will be taken to a small military station where you will probably spend the first night. The next morning, the show will begin. Once in Quetta, you will be taken to complete the necessary documents and then boarded on a train to Sukkur. If you are coming from Quetta you will have to first go to the city's Department of Home Affairs. There, you will process the "NOC", the paperwork required to cross the desert to Taftan, and then it is "simply" a matter of following the escorted pickups towards inhospitable terrain... and finally Iran.

If that is your next stop, check out this article: IRAN ITINERARY