Traveling with dog in Armenia
Traveling with Cocaí through Armenia was wonderful. We stayed for almost a month and a half, in the summer of 2019, and we were able to do EVERYTHING in terms of tourist activities (except for a couple of monasteries, which she couldn't enter). Plus, hitchhiking was better than anywhere else in the world, wild camping is allowed and safe, and I even found some hostels where we were admitted without a problem. So... simply incredible for traveling with a dog!
Note. I have yet to discuss the issue of stray dogs in Armenia and other Asian countries in future posts.
JOURNEY
Bavra (border with Georgia) – Gyumri – Vanadzor – Dilijan National Park (Hagartsin and Parz Lake) – Sevan Lake – Garni – Geghard Monastery – Azat Lake – Yerevan – Khor Virap – Noravank Monastery – Tatev – Goris – Kapan – Shikahogh State Reserve – Agarak (border with Iran)
DURATION
40 days.
TRANSPORTATION
Hitchhiking
The trip was entirely by hitchhiking. We didn't take any bus, taxi, boat... As I said at the beginning of the post, it was great. The Armenians are charming and not only did they fulfill “their mission” of taking us from the road, but also many guided us to some “secret” place, one of those that only the locals know, shared food with me and even some welcomed us into their homes.
You can read this post from AUTOSTOP IN ARMENIA if you are interested ;)
ACCOMMODATION
Free camping
Armenia is amazing for wild camping: it has beautiful surroundings and is very safe. Therefore, I highly recommend traveling with a tent. We spent the night in the following settings: Dilijan National Park (Parz Lake), Sevan Lake, Geghard Monastery, Khor Virap, Tatev, Kapan, Shikahogh Reserve. In addition to some other night on the side of the road or a forest while en route.
Hostel
We stayed in four hostels: Hostel #1 (Gyumri), Lovely Goris Hostel (Goris), Hostel Samuel (Agarak) and one in Yerevan whose name I do not include here because although they were very nice they did not allow dogs. We arrived at night, I knocked on the door and a young Iranian man opened the door. The next morning the owners were amazed, but still they let us stay another night to give me time to look for something where they would allow us with a dog. The other three highly recommended, although at the Samuel Hostel, in Agarak, Cocaí had to sleep next to the door camping in the tent.
Spontaneous couchsurfing
We stayed in three places with local people: Bavra, Yerevan and Khor Virap. The first night, as soon as we crossed from Georgia, a group of friends welcomed us in the town of Bavra. The good thing: this is any traveler's dream when landing in a country. The bad thing: I had a terrible hangover (damn Armenian ararat) to start hitchhiking next day.
In Yerevan we stayed several nights with some guys who had picked us up hitchhiking and had given me their contact information in case I needed help. I needed a base for a few days to manage the Iranian visa. We precisely moved from the hostel that I mentioned above where they did not allow dogs.
In Khor Virap we stayed ten days in a family's house, but it was due to an extraordinary situation. I had an accident with the father of this family, who was driving... and since I had a sore back, they adopted us until I recovered. It is one of the most special chapters of the first book El Pekín Express Canino :)
Others that I didn't do: official camping, official Couchsurfing, Airbnb
FOOD STORES AND OTHER ESTABLISHMENTS
We didn't have any major problems. As far as I remember in all the places I sat down to eat we were well received, both in cities, towns and rural areas. Armenian food is amazing by the way.
TOURISM WITH DOG
As I said, in terms of tourism with dogs, Armenia is really rgood. Very dogfriendly (or very permissive) country. Bravo.
Nature
I visited all of these places with Cocaí: Dilijan National Park, Sevan Lake, Azat Lake, Armenian Cappadocia (in Goris), Devil's Bridge and the natural pools near Tatev, Shikahogh State Reserve…
Archaeological sites and temples
We were able to access the Greek-pagan temple of Garni, and all the monastic complexes that we visited, but not the interior as such. We were in Hagartsin, Tatev, Noravank, Geghard and Khor Virap. Luckily, except in Tatev, I always went with someone so they could stay with Cocaí while I made the obligatory visit to the interior.
Note. As of 2019, dogs could not ride the Tatev cable car, the longest in the world.
DOG DOCUMENTATION
I was not asked for any dog documentation entering from Georgia by land. However, you must have certain papers in order, especially if you are traveling by plane (they are usually way stricter than at land borders).
What you actually need?
Crossing by land:
Animal Passport with a valid rabies vaccine
Health certificate from a veterinarian
Additionally, it is recommended:
The microchip, even if they don't ask for it in Armenia (I'm not sure), to return to Europe it is mandatory.
Other vaccines (pentavalent, to combat lethal viruses such as parvovirus).
The Rabies Titer Test. Supposedly you will be asked for this paper when entering Europe (although they did not ask me for it in Bulgaria when I returned).
By plane:
As I said, they are stricter and I would contact the Armenian agriculture service (or the embassy of Armenia in your home country). It is probably enough to have all of the above, but there are countries that have additional requirements.
In any case, every time I reach this point of "my dog experience" in a specific country, I always remember that this is not a blog specialized in canine documentation and that the corresponding agricultural service should be consulted, in addition to other websites that are more up to date (these requirements may change from one year to the next). A very complete one is this: https://www.pettravel.com/immigration/armenia.cfm
ASSESSMENT
Armenia is undoubtedly one of the easiest countries I had ever traveled with a dog and where we have enjoyed it the most together. As I said, we were able to do and visit almost everything, the people seemed super nice, we made good friends, we loved the food... and on top of that the two biggest obstacles of the dog traveler were less so than in any other country we have been to.
Phenomenal hitchhiking, super fast. However, for those who don't see themselves hitchhiking with a dog, I can't think of many options. There are no car-sharing apps and it won't be easy to get on buses. You can always rent a car. The accommodation is also great, since you can pitch your tent wherever you want and on top of that we found dog-friendly places. Here I have given the names of some, but I am sure there are many more.
You know friends, come to Armenia with your dogs. You won't regret it!
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